Early on in the Grand Adventures project, Tim Hobin got in touch to tell me he was about to go and paddle down the Ganges in a £50 kayak. This sounded right up my street so I asked him to report back once he got home…
As soon as I pushed off from the shore, I knew I was in trouble. Water was pouring into the kayak fore and aft, the sound of the rapids frightened the life out of me, and the power and violence of the water tossed me about like a rag doll. Welcome to the Ganges! And I’mve got a thousand kilometres of this still to go!
My plan was simple: buy an inflatable kayak off eBay for £50, jump on a plane to India, then paddle between Haridwar and Varanasi. It would be my very own Ganga Yatra, a sort of modern day pilgrimage on the holiest river in the world. What could possibly go wrong?
There isn’t much information on the net about such a trip. Google Maps helped a bit, Eric Newby’s book Slowly down the Ganges had by now lost much of its relevance. And this year’s monsoon had claimed hundreds of lives and the ensuing floods have created havoc for the millions of Indians that rely on the Ganga for its life-giving properties for their very survival.
I remember reading Nicholas Crane’s book Clear Water Rising, (he walks for 10,000kms in two and a half years from Finistere in Western Spain to the Turkish border with Iran). His advice on training for long distance journeys was simple and effective. Don’t bother training. Just start off with short walks and gradually make them longer. “That’s it,” I thought. So I took my second hand inflatable kayak down to the local canal, paddled it for an hour up and down, packed it up, went home and ticked the box marked “trained and tested”. Simple really.
My solo kayak trip down the Ganges covered 1000 kms over 26 days. It cost me £750, including flights and all my equipment. When I think back now, highlights include pushing off onto the river through the cool and fragrant early morning mist as the sun rose. I would be greeted by the sound of the myriad waterbirds, the sight of ancient temples gently being reclaimed by the waters that they were built to worship, and the delicious solitude that solo travel brings.
After a couple of weeks on the water you really start to understand the nature of the river, what certain ripples mean, where the sand bars are likely to be and those moments when you have a pod of Gangetic dolphins swimming alongside or watching the sinister crocodiles on shoreline seemingly smiling back at me benevolently. Children would shout greetings out to me or swim out to intercept me. No tourist ever goes that way so there was a real sense of adventure surrounding the journey. It was magical!
I did the trip because I always I always like trying to come up with ideas for solo journeys that I can undertake with little or no prior knowledge of the technical skills needed to be successful, and without it being too dangerous. I’mm 51 years old now so I haven’t got loads of spare years to acquire all the relevant knowledge for remote adventure!
I enjoy travelling and have undertaken extended solo walks, motorcycle rides, bicycle rides etc. I was looking for a self-powered expedition that would take me out of my comfort zone far enough so that it was exciting and adventurous, but not so far that I wasn’t able to enjoy the experience.
This trip has given me the confidence to know that even in your fifties you can work hard for 8-10 hours a day, every day, for a month. So I know that I can still get out there into the remote parts of the world under my own steam and thrive. You are only limited by what you think you can do rather than what you can do.
Turning this from a dream into reality was simple really. The idea came to me and, rather than thinking too much about the pros and cons of a journey like this, I just got on and started planning what kit I needed. I hit the internet to try and research as much as possible, as I knew there would be many unknown factors along the way that I couldn’t foresee.
But it doesn’t matter weather you are an Antarctic explorer or an outdoor novice: it’s taking the next step that matters. Even experts started from the beginning. Enjoy the challenge of sleeping outside, even if it’s in the back garden. After all, it’s not five star luxury, it’s five thousand star luxury…
It’s sensible not to take untested kit on a big trip, because if you can’t fix it yourself in the field, you may find yourself in a tricky situation. I also recommend you book your flights about 60 days before you travel as this is the best time for fares… Use Skyscanner or Momondo to find bargains. Source your kit from eBay. If it’s a short trip then cheap secondhand gear is fine or, better still, borrow it. When you’re out on the trip, eat in small restaurants where the locals eat or eat street food. Get a good guide book: it will save you money. But remember its a guide not a Bible.
Travelling with a friend is sometimes an adventure, travelling alone is always an adventure. Be realistic about your goals, but do do it! Focus on what you are capable of doing and push a little bit further. Relax: it will all work out in the end, it always does!
If there’s no element of challenge in it then you’re on a holiday not an adventure!
My new book, Grand Adventures, is out now.
It’s designed to help you dream big, plan quick, then go explore.
The book contains interviews and expertise from around 100 adventurers, plus masses of great photos to get you excited.
I would be extremely grateful if you bought a copy here today!
I would also be really thankful if you could share this link on social media with all your friends – http://goo.gl/rIyPHA. It honestly would help me far more than you realise.
Thank you so much!
A brilliant read! That very trip has been in my mind for some 10years but other trips have always moved it down the list in priority. India is a very intense experience. Congrats on making it a success!
Good on ya Tim! Proper modern day adventurer and an all round lovely bloke.
Sounds like a great adventure Tim! I’ve been wanting to do a trip on an inflatable kayak for a while but have been deterred by their cost when new. What kayak did you find on eBay?
Great story! The crocodiles sound a bit dodgy. I wondered what brand/kind of kayak you took?
Hello,
Can you tell me where did u start and where did you finish the kayaking on the Ganges? Greetings, Daniel.
Hey Daniel,
it says he travelled between Haridwar and Varanasi, Haridwar is near Rishikesh…..
Blessings…….